Nh 565 Bailer Service Manual
Can't tell you about the year but I can tell you the 565 is NH's economy baler. Lighter driveline, old style feed forks, and 4 bar pickup.
I have a 565 that I paid $5250 for in 2000 in very good condition so $5500 probably isn't bad as the 565 is still a current model. To do it again I'd hold out for the larger, heavier 570. My next baler will be a JD 348 because JD parts and service are superior in my area.
It will take more effort to make consistent bales in varying conditions with the 565 than with the larger models with rotary feed.
He uses a hack saw blade as the gage. He has been working on my baler for 30 years and so far that has worked for both of us. The owners manual has the actual gages to be used. Sharpening the knives, use a file not a grinding wheel. The grinding wheel take out the temper of the steel. I do use an electric wire brush to get off the rust and Stuff.
But on the edges I use first a coarse file and then a fine flat file. Also have two sets of knives, one in the baler and one sitting there being sharpened as time permits. I went by my local dealer and looked at a brand new baler.
New Holland 565 Baler Timing
New Holland 565 Baler Specifications
Bioprocess engineering basic concepts solution manual. The knives are pretty tight. You'd be hard pressed to slide a piece of paper between them. I may not go that tight since there's probably more slop in this older baler. Hacksaw blade should be about right. I've got a buddy with a machine shop who sharpened them. He used a cutting tool. I swear I could shave with them.
They may be too sharp. I think I'll take off a little bit to keep from chipping them. Since I've never had one minute's problems out of this baler I never needed a service manual.
Sooner or later I'll have to get one. If you have a thick grease that'll work as well, and might not alter the thickness of the shims. You have to pay attention to any side to side movement of your plunger. That is VERY important. If you have the gap set just right, but the plunger is as far away from the knives as it will get, if it gets closer, you will have EXPENSIVE problems. I think there is an eccentric bearing to adjust the plunger, but you have to look in the book for that, cause I'm sure it's very specific. I always just replace the shim packs at the same spot where they came out, but you don't have that luxury, you have to be certain that things are right.
After you have it all together and you think it's right, roll the baler over by HAND a few times to make sure everything is OK.